Oden

The Oden had beautiful wood floors

The trip on the Oden was incredible. We boarded the ship on Wednesday night. It was quite cold, windy and snowy in McMurdo. The ship pulled up to the ice pier and used a man basket and a crane to transfer all of us from the pier to the deck. The original plan was that we would spend the night in McMurdo Sound, the Oden would help the fuel ship into the pier in the morning and then we would be on our way to Beaufort Island. Unfortunately, the ice pier had a section of ice that was protruding from the bottom and had the potential to damage the fuel ship. Therefore, the Oden spent most of the night trying to break this section of ice off the pier. This was only partially successful, so the harbor master in McMurdo decided to work on the pier using a drill and explosives. This meant that our trip would be cut a couple of days short, because the Oden would need to be back on Saturday to escort the fuel ship into the pier. Therefore, the decision was made to head straight to Franklin Island (where the majority of the science work needed to be done) and then stop at Beaufort Island if time permitted on the return trip.

We saw a lot of wildlife on our trip out of the ice. We saw seals, penguins (emperor and adelie), orkas and skuas.

We woke up the next morning off the coast of Franklin Island. Sven, our helicopter pilot, took 6 loads of people and cargo over to the Island.

Sven taking off from the AWS site

Our work included replacing the Whitlock AWS, which stopped working in 2005. The station was quite buried when we arrived. We dug down and removed all of the instrumentation. Then we installed a completely new station next to the existing tower.

Before picture of Whitlock AWS

After picture of Whitlock AWS

After our work was completed, we walked down to the Polenet (another science group working on the Island) site. This would save Sven a trip in the helicopter and it was interesting to see the the coastal portion of the Island.

Picture from the Polenet site

Picture from the Polenet site

The Island was covered in Olivine

View from the helo on the trip back to the Oden

We did stop at Beaufort Island on our way back to McMurdo. One of the scientists on board was studying an Adelie penguin colony located on the Island. The Oden drifted around the Island for a few hours while he completed his work. We saw a lot of penguins swimming and jumping in the water during this time.

The skies had cleared up and the sun came out for our return trip. We were blessed with more wildlife and beautiful views.

Upcoming Trips

Lee and I were suppose to fly out to Mullock Glacier to remove a station today. The station was installed on the Glacier in October 2006. The strong katabatic winds that rush down the glacial valley have destroyed this station and it is no longer transmitting. Unfortunately, the weather today caused our helo flight to be canceled, but we are on the helo schedule for tomorrow and will try again.

Jonathan and I are schedule to leave on the icebreaker, the Oden, tomorrow night. We should be on the icebreaker for about 5 days, traveling to Beaufort Island and Franklin Island. In total there should be four science groups going out on the trip and it should be interesting to see what the other groups are working on. Our goal is to replace a station that we have on Franklin Island.

The Oden at dock in McMurdo

MEGADUNES

The last trip that we took out of CTAM was to Megadunes. This is a very interesting region of Antarctica. See a satellite image of the area at the following link.

http://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/IOTD/view.php?id=5641

The area is located within the East Antarctic Plateau, a large, flat ice sheet. The megadunes have been carved out of the ice by the strong katabatic winds. Due to the fact that the wavelength (the distance between the top of two dunes) is very large, the megadunes cannot be seen from the ground. Airplanes can sometimes see a slight wave in the ice, but the megadunes can only be seen clearly from satellite imagery. See the following link for more information on how the megadunes were formed.

http://nsidc.org/antarctica/megadunes/dunes.html

Therefore, as we stood at the Megadunes AWS sites, we could only see flat snow and ice in every direction. There are three AWS sites, spaced about a half a mile apart, in this region. These sites were installed a few years ago by a group that was studying how the megadunes were formed. The project is completed, so Jonathan and I removed the three stations. Unfortunately, I do not have any photos from these site (Jonathan took the pictures that day). Although, I did get a picture of a crevasse region on the flight out to the sites.

Straight lines in the ice are crevasses

Lettau

We went out to visit the Lettau AWS site during our second day at CTAM. At this site we added 3 new tower sections and installed an entire set of new instruments. The power at this site has been clicking on and off for a few years (Shelley and I visited this site in 2009 and the group from last year also visited this site) so we thought that a new set of instruments might be able to fix the problem.

Lettau AWS

The flights out to Lettau and to the sites on the previous day were incredibly beautiful. The CTAM field camp is located on the Beardmore Glacier in the Transantarctic Mountains. The map below (borrowed from another Antarctic blogger) details the region. You'll see McMurdo labeled as MCM in the bottom right hand corner. CTAM is located closer to the center, within the Transantarctic Mountain Range. Lastly, you'll see the Ross Ice Shelf in the center.


The stations that we flew to on the first two days out of CTAM are located on the Ross Ice Shelf . Therefore, the flights included views of the Transantarctic Mountains and its many glaciers. Here are a few highlights from the flights.






In other news, the riggers were able to install tall tower. Therefore, the tower sections and upper four levels of booms have been installed. Jonathan, Lee and I have packed up all of the instrumentation (there will be 6 levels of instrumentation on the tower) and put it into the cargo system. Therefore, once Jonathan and I return from the Icebreaker and Lee returns from South Pole we should be able to get out on a Twin Otter to get the instrumentation installed. We received word today that we will have 2 riggers to help us with the instrumentation installation. This will be a HUGE help. Here are a couple of pictures that were sent to us by the riggers.

Sabrina and Two Installations

Our first day at CTAM turned out to be quite productive. We were on the schedule to fly to Sabrina in the afternoon, but the weather for the primary flight was bad and we ended up having use of the Twin Otter for the entire day. Our plan was to visit Sabrina and then attempt to install at least one, if not both, of the two new sites.

Just to give you a little background, the area near Sabrina and the two new installations is extremely important to me. My PhD research is focused on the wind jet that forms at the base of the Transantarctic Mountains in this region. Specifically, within the jet there is an area of maximum wind speed near the location of the Sabrina AWS (the site that Shelley and I installed in February 2009). Individual forcing mechanisms for the dynamics of this jet have been studied in the past, but until the Sabrina AWS was installed we had no observations in this area. I have used the observations from Sabrina to study the dynamics of the jet and to understand the mechanisms that are needed to create wind speeds in excess of 20 m/s for a duration of approximately 48 hours.

Jonathan and I serviced Sabrina. We raised the tower (added a 7' tower section on top of the existing site) and installed a set of new instruments at the site. Here is a before and after picture (you can see some of the mountains in the background, although the Twin Otter was in the way of a direct view of the mountains from this site).

Before

After

The goal of the two new installations is to give us observations through a cross section of the jet. Therefore, we installed a new AWS at a location farther away from the mountains than Sabrina and at a location closer to the mountains than Sabrina. Here is a series of pictures that gives you an idea of the distance from the mountains for each of these sites (this jet is quite large).

View from farthest site (Marlene)

View from Sabrina

View from the closest site (Tom)

We were fortunate enough to get both of these installations completed in the same day. Here are pictures of the final products.

Marlene

Tom

CTAM

The trip to CTAM was a success. Our goal was to service the Sabrina and Lettau AWS sites, to install two new sites and to remove three sites out of Megadunes. We had 11 days to accomplish this. We had good weather and great pilots and managed to get all of the work done in 7 days (3 flight days).

As you can see, the scenery at CTAM was incredible. The sky was clear and blue almost everyday (I think that we only had one day of overcast skies). The temperatures were fairly warm. I'm not sure what it was outside, but my tent ranged anywhere from 31 deg F to 85 deg F. The tent could get quite warm in the evenings when the sun hit it just right. Although, when it was time to get out of my sleeping bag in the morning it was closer to 31 deg F. Talk about difficult to get out of bed.

On Sunday (everyone's day off - no flights), Jonathan and I took a hike. The camp has a great rec route that has been flagged by mountaineers for everyone's use. Most people use this route to take a snow mobile up to an exposed area where you can find 2 million year old fossils. Unfortunately, since we walked the route we did not have enough time to make it to the fossils, but we did see some incredible mountains views along the way (the hike goes up on a ridge from the camp).


The picture below should give you an idea of how far away from camp we were. The little dots in the middle are the tents and temporary structures of camp.


There were a lot of interesting projects out of CTAM. One group was removing dinosaur bones from an area on Mt. Kirkpatrick. A couple of years ago, two new species were found in this area. Here is a link on the discovery of the plant eating dinosaur (the second half of the article). The other dinosaur is a meat eater that look similar to a T-rex, but has what the scientists described as a "shovel" on its head.

http://www.abc.net.au/science/news/stories/s1056189.htm

We were able to see some of the samples that were recovered. I am not sure what bone this is, but I'm sure that it fits somewhere into the big puzzle of the skeleton.

The Penguin and the Seal

We made it back from CTAM. The trip was great. We had good weather, got our work done and even got back a few days early. Although, I will post more about that later because I have more important things to blog about now. Like the fact that I finally saw my first Antarctic penguin! For those of you who know me well, you know that this is a VERY big deal for me.

Tonight I took a walk out to Hut Point after we were finished in the lab. In all honesty, I was going searching for penguins as I always do. I figured, as usual, that I would have a nice walk and if I were lucky that I might see a seal or two. I rounded the corner of the hill and I spotted a penguin. I couldn't believe my eyes. I praised the Lord and then whipped out my camera and binoculars (thanks Mom and Dad).



I eventually sat down to watch him for a bit. The sea ice kept moving around and then all of a sudden a seal popped out of the water. Luckily, these are Weddell seals and they do not eat penguins. I sat and watched the two until my fingers were numb. All in all, I felt pretty lucky.

Willie Field

Yesterday, Lee and I went out to our site at Willie Field. This is about a 45 minute drive out the Ice Road on the Ross Ice Shelf. We did this drive in a track pickup truck. See photo below.

Track Pickup Truck

On the way, we saw three tractors hauling cargo and realized that it was our cargo for the traverse out to the Tall Tower site. Therefore, the Tall Tower project is in motion. The traverse should have reached the site early this morning and the riggers will work to get the tower and booms installed over the next couple of days. Lee, Jonathan and I are set to be in the field for the next couple of weeks, so we'll start attempting to fly out to the Tall Tower site to install the instrumentation sometime after that.

Traverse out to Tall Tower Site

We also saw the launching of a long duration balloon while we were out at the site. These balloons take ozone measurements in the stratosphere. We had to clear out of the area during the launch due to safety reasons. If the balloon has trouble launching, it is important that no one is in the area where it may come crashing down.

Launching of a long duration balloon

After being allowed back into our site, Lee and I removed the instrumentation of the Willie Field site. The station stopped transmitting data (we send our data to satellites through the Argos system) in September. We also removed an old experimental tower that was next to the official site. This involves a lot of digging. We found that the tower base was about 6 feet below the snow surface. Here is a picture of me in the hole that we dug. As you can see, the surface of the snow is well above my head.

Hole to remove experimental tower at Willie Field

Jonathan and I have been delayed on our flight out to CTAM. We were suppose to fly out this morning, but are now scheduled for tomorrow. This isn't a very big deal, since our original fly out date was for tomorrow.

It looks like CTAM was featured on a NY Time blog.

http://scientistatwork.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/12/14/airplanes-and-helicopters-on-an-icy-runway/

This should give you an idea of where we are heading. We are scheduled to be there until about the 23rd.

Lee is suppose to fly out to Byrd field camp today. Although, I have been checking the flight schedule and it seems that he is currently on mechanical delay.

In other Antarctic news, it seems that the Russians have gotten approval to drill through the Ice, into Lake Vostok. This is up on the Plateau and holds the record for coldest recorded temperature (-129 F). It will be interesting to see what they find.

http://www.popsci.com/science/article/2011-01/scientists-prepare-penetrate-subglacial-lake-hunt-weird-life-forms

It's snowing!

For those of you who have been to McMurdo, you know that it is not often when the town is covered in white. We've had flurries on and off over the past couple of days with no accumulation. This morning started with flurries, but then turned into a beautiful day. I was working outside without a coat for most of the afternoon. After dinner, I was up on the cargo line preparing tower sections for the field when the weather changed quickly and the snow started. By the time that I headed back to my room, about an hour later, the ground was covered. Of course this amount of snow is considered nothing for the northeast or the mountains of Colorado, but for McMurdo in the summer it makes things quite fun. There were quite a few happy people outside taking pictures.

In the mean time, Jonathan, Lee and I have been working hard to get our cargo prepped and shipped to the field camps. Lee is scheduled to fly to Byrd field camp on Tuesday and Jonathan and I are scheduled to fly to CTAM (Central Transantarctic Mountains) on Wednesday. We have to have our cargo into the system at least two days in advance (and Sunday does not count). We got the Byrd cargo loaded today and we're working hard to get the CTAM cargo loaded tomorrow.

The other exciting news is that the tall tower project (installing a 30 meter tower in the middle of the Ross Ice Shelf) might be a go for this year. We've been trying to get the tall tower installed for the past 2 or 3 seasons. Each year we have trouble getting the riggers out to the site to install the tower due to bad weather. Without fail, this year has been the same situation with bad weather and busy flight schedules. Although, the planners have developed a new plan. This includes sending the riggers and equipment out to the site using the Traverse road. The Traverse is a two thousand mile trek made from McMurdo to South Pole. It is used to haul cargo and fuel to the South Pole. Here is a blog from someone who was on the Traverse and took some amazing photos

http://beyondthebackyard.com/Adventures/SouthPoleTraverse/SouthPoleTraverseJournal5.html

I would estimate that the Tall Tower site is about a days drive (on a track vehicle) from McMurdo. It will be very interesting to see if this project goes through. If the riggers are able to install the tower, we'll fly out in February to install the instruments. Here's to keeping our fingers crossed.

We made it!

We finally made it to the Ice. We left Christchurch at 11:15 pm Monday and arrived at the Pegasus runway at 4:15 am Tuesday. It is about an hour ride on Ivan the Terrabus into McMurdo. Once we arrived we had our welcome training, breakfast and our science briefing. Then we had some time to check into our rooms, shower and do laundry. I met my roommate, who seems very nice. She studies something to do with worms that are found beneath the snow. I didn't get to talk to her about it for very long, so that is the best description that I can give. That afternoon we were able to locate all of our cargo and get it unpacked in the lab.

This morning we had environmental training (Antarctica has very strict environmental regulations for waste, haz mat spills, etc.), the snow school refresher course (unfortunately, I did not get to go through the full snow school class again - no sleeping in a snow trench this time around) and light vehicle training. The rest of the day was spent unpacking our orange shed of tools, parts and supplies, locating our sleep kits (or lack there of - the BFC said that they should have them pulled for us by tomorrow), working out a schedule for flying, getting batteries charged and looking at satellite imagery to view crevasse safety in the location of new AWS installs. It looks like we'll be leaving for field camps by Tuesday or Wednesday. This means that we have quite a bit of work to do to test our stations and get our cargo into the system by Saturday.

McMurdo itself is pretty good. I haven't had much time to do exploring, but I'm hoping to get out on one of the hiking trails tomorrow evening. Maybe I'll have some updated photos by then.

View from the C-17

Delayed Again

We just received unofficial word that we're delayed for another 24 hours. We did not hear the specifics about why we're delayed, but I am assuming that it is still related to the runway.

Continuing to take full advantage of our time in Christchurch, we took a bus ride over to Lyttelton yesterday. Lyttelton is a major shipping port for the south island of New Zealand. It is situated on a protected harbor with very steep hills and cliffs.


We grabbed a cup of coffee in town and then took the ferry across to Diamond Harbor. Diamond Harbor is a small vacation town with beautiful views. We were hoping to have lunch over looking the ocean at Godley Head House. Unfortunately, it had been damaged in the recent earthquakes and is closed. We walked around town for a bit and caught the ferry back to Lyttelton for some fish and chips before returning to Christchurch.

Some of you have been to Christchurch in the past and may be wondering about the extent of the damage from the recent earthquakes. During my first couple of days in town, I didn't think that the damage was too bad. There were a lot of buildings with scaffolding and jacks to brace the damaged areas, but it didn't seem like any of the buildings had been completely leveled. Now that I've had a chance to make it to the outskirts of town, I realize that some places have been hit harder than others. On the outskirts of town, some buildings have been demolished, others are missing entire walls, etc. Additionally, there have been continuous aftershocks. Most of them are small (I felt one the other night that was probably about a 3.8 or 4.0), but I'm sure that some of the larger ones create fear in the people who experienced the large one back in September.